The Ganduyan Chronicles

It was a long awaited travel. For months, I've been contemplating of travelling back to Sagada for the fourth time and I want it to be the best that I will have. If I will be following my traveldater, Sagada is scheduled on July 2009 but due to urgency and excitement, it must be conquered right away. So I tagged along my lovely wife Chiela, who has not been to somewhere as far as Sagada and was excited as well. It will her first time to witness God's gift of nature, culture, and tradition to our Igorot brothers and sisters hidden 16 mountains away from urban living. And to make our travel more lively, I tagged along a cousin of mine Cris.

Since I'm the only one who is used to long road trips, it was a comfortable ride for me. Full of chit chats and jokes while on the road and I can really feel the energy rushing into their veins. Reaching Baguio City, I encourage them to walk from the terminal to the old Dangwa station where the bus to Sagada are stationed. We walked thru Session Road and as we reached the back of the old Coyeesan Mall (it was the first shopping mall built in Baguio before SM rised in 2004) I quickly checked on the bus skeds going to Sagada. Lizardo has the earliest trip at 6:15am, so we boarded the bus and waited. There were young Koreans, yuppies and students from Manila and nearby provinces, and numerous Igorot old folks who were very hard to understand and very stiff to be with.

Our first stop over along the highway in Benguet and had cups of freshly brewed mountain coffee, a good match to the Krispy Kreme donuts that Chiela brought along the travel. Cool climate, hot coffee, and a good sun shine greeting us, it cleanse my mind and soul preparing me for a more exhillirating reunion with nature. Tall pine trees, chilling wind, and a scenery of laidback way of life, welcome to Sagada. I decided to check first on St.Joseph House since we're backpackers, no itinerary nor reservations to hotels is present. Prices in St.Joseph were bit costly so we decided look for other place to stay. I noticed an old but decent inn to stay so I asked right away for the caretaker of the Ganduyan Inn and luckily, they gave us a room for 600.00 per day with private bathroom for the three of us.

We had our first taste of Sagada food at the renowned Masferre Cafe. Masferre Cafe was built in honor of Eduardo Masferre, the father of Philippine photography. He was the first one who published the images of the Igorot tribes people and decided to live amongst them. He became a farmer and started his own farmland to raise funds for his photography, making the Igorots famous around the world. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take pictures of his works so I decided to capture the interiors of the cafe. After the hearty meal, we went around the church to take pictures and it started to drizzle. We passed by a barren grassland at the back of the cemetery and take a short cut to an open field reaching the Municipal road where all the restaurants, cafes, and shops were located.

Having Chiela as a companion, one must have plenty of foodie ideas. She explores too much on food and gets hungry more often. After two hours of walking to grasslands and in the town, we decided to try Bana's Cafe. We had a heavy snack of pancakes with honey and butter, Chiela had her quick favorite ham and cheese omelette, and Cris had coffee and Bana's clubhouse. Their coffee at Bana's was superb and the food was equally excellent.

I woke up at 4:00am and it was a good warm morning. The rain stopped and we push with our plan of trekking Bokong Falls. Its saturday and Sagada town is very busy because it is their market day. Old Igorot folks greeted us with smile and good mornings and even asked us where we are going. They instructed me the fastest route going to Bokong Falls. We reached the end of the road and its a downhill trek down the slope to where the falls is located. We took extra care since its a bit slippery but midway there were concrete steps leading down the falls. Rice terraces were neatly formed wayside the falls. We stayed there for almost half an hour. Dipping on the cool water, climbing the rocks beside the falls, taking pictures along the way, we noticed a large chocolate plastic pack flowing in the stream. I asked Chiela and Cris if they are willing to be Earth soldiers at least for a while and they agreed. What we did is, we swept all the plastic trash we saw on our way up not to mind the slippery slopes. When we reached the roadside again, we were able to collect three large plastic bags of trash and some tourists stared at us.

Returning to the town with bags full of trash, we decided to look into Sagada Weaving, its owner greeted us and we asked if the store is already open. He welcomed us gladly and I told him if we could leave the trash in his trash bin and he thanked us so much for our concern to Sagada and said that it is what the tourists have not learned until now leaving trash in a helpless but beautiful forest. He allowed us to take pictures but I begged off in due respect to their craft. We ended our trek in the town looking at the fresh vegetables, cooked foods, ukay-ukay clothes, goods that can be stocked for a week if you're living in Sagada.

After a short rest, we hit the greens again and trekked Echo Valley and the Calavary Cemetery. On our way, we stopped at the church and noticed a white furry dog following us. What Cris did was, he played with the dog and asked if he could guide us to Echo Valley as he mentioned that it must be a guide in the area. We allowed the dog to go ahead of us as we passed by the cemetery. We even tried stopping and the good dog stopped as well staring at us. We go on and as we reached the end of the pathway, we discovered Echo Valley. From our vantage point, I was able to take shots of one of the hanging coffins cave. I want to go near the cave but the two did not allow me (darn weaklings!). As we go around the cliff and into the cemetery again, we noticed that the dog is already gone (spooky?) If you will visit Sagada, look for the dog I named Puti.

All pumped up after a good lunch courtesy of Bana's (Chiela has been enchanted by it), we're all set to conquer the ultimate test to a Sagada traveller, experiencing Sumaguing. We went straight to the Municipal Hall for the environmental pass and to meet our tour guide, Ricky. On our way to Sumaguing, we took a side trip to another hanging coffin but we were not able to get closer since we really want to reach Sumaguing as early as we can. Cris and Chiela were so amazed when we enter the Burial Cave. Face to face with old coffins of the Igorots is one hell of an experience. We were able to peek into skulls and bones inside the coffins. Though the trek back and forth the burial cave was pretty tiring, we managed to continue or trek towards the cave.

Enough has been said. It was truly a worthy experience not only for me but also to Chiela and Cris who were first timers in this place. Forget about looks, forget about poise. The whole spelunking thing tested and measured our level of enjoyment. As for me, its my fourth time and it served as a reunion of sort between me and the cave. The dark corridors and wet slopes of naturally-formed rocks proved that we must take part in preserving these priceless gift to us Filipinos (More photos of Sumaguing Cave in other blog entry). Its raining hard when we went out of the cave and thou we were drenched in mud and water, our spirits remained at its peak.

It was our last night in Sagada. Still, my stay will not be complete without accomplishing something for myself. Its the last piece of the puzzle. Pinikpikan! After the Sumaguing experience,I felt that I exhumed all the energy of my body and a bowl of Pinikpikan will capped off my stay in Sagada. But, most of the resots and cafes offer pricey Pinikpikan dish around 650-900 per order good for 8-10 persons. It contains whole chicken (butchered the Igorot way) and etag (traditional smoked ham). While we're trekking to Sumaguing, I noticed this old house with walls made up of galvanized sheets and its says Salt and Pepper Restaurant. The place was hard to notice but what catches my sight is this sign, "Buffet Pinikpikan Tonight". That night we went back and right away ordered for it. Chiela had her favorite Chicken adobo, Cris had lechon kawali, and I got the Pinikpikan for 200.00 buffet with unlimited plate of rice. I managed to finish off 5 bowls of Pinikpikan with 2 parts of chicken, slice of etag, and soothing and relieving bowl of soup. It really made my Sagada stay complete. Until I noticed that, I didn't have my camera and Chiela did not bring her camera phone as well. But the experience preserved its entirety to my heart and mind.

As we board the 10:30am bus trip back to Baguio. All we have in us are good memories and unforgetable experience. We don't know when will this happen again. But one thing is for sure, I will go back to where Pinikpikan made me fell in love to it. By the way, do you know what Ganduyan is and where the word Sagada originated? Ganduyan is the former name of Sagada until the Americans came and asked a tribes man for the name of the place. The man is carrying a water vessel made of bamboo which was called Sag-a, he thought the American is asking for the name what he is carrying, he replied, Sag-a da! means water carrier.

Special thanks to:
Ganduyan Inn
Sir Michael and Ganduyan Museum
Ricky of the Sagada Tour Guides Association
Bana's Resto and Cafe
Handukka Cafe
Salt and Pepper Cafe
Sagada Weaving
and the little white dog that serves as our guide...
Masferre Restaurant

2009 - 2010 I Must-Travel Places in the PINAS!!!

Many blog entries has been made showing the various and must-see places in the Pinas. Frequently mentioned were Batanes, Boracay, Puerto Galera, Palawan, Camarines Norte, and the well revered Anawangin in Zambales.

I must say PILIPINAS is the most beautiful place in the world (Bias!). Not only that I'm a PROUD PINOY but I was blessed enough to have the chance to visit and travel some of the most treasured places of our country. I thought I already had enough but to my surprise, there still more and there will be more.

Let me share to you the I-Must-Travel places in Pinas for 2009-2010...Why not only 2009? If my schedule will allow me then who am I to say no to these beautiful and enchanting places. Since I'm working full-time and my chosen vocation does not permit me to do this occasionally then, I will extend my plan to visit these places until maybe March 2010. To see these places is not only my reason to travel, photography and food exploration comes in handy as well.

1. Baler Eco-Travel (Baler, Aurora Province)

Baler is a province blessed with an abundance of travel locations. It has its share of historical sights such as the home and resthouse of former Philippine President Manuel L. Quezon. The province also has a beautiful Catholic church and several historical markers. Its natural attractions include picturesque waterfalls, lush greenery on mountainsides, and panoramic beaches. Surfing, snorkeling, scuba diving, mountain climbing and trekking are only some of the activities a tourist can enjoy in Aurora.

This month of May 2009, my travel Dabarkads will be conquering Baler as we dubbed it as "Project Jericho". We will visit Dicasalarin Bay in San Luis, Sabang Beach, the Borlongan Beach in Dipaculao, and the historical Baler Church and Ermita Hill.

Shutter Subjects: Shore lines, mountain ranges, historical markers, beach fronts
Best Eaten: Fresh catch seafoods from the beach
Travel Date: May 23-25, 2009
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2. Sagada Trek (Sagada, Mountain Province 1,500 MASL)

It was back in 2004 when I first visited Sagada. Well, all I know of Sagada then are mountains, rice terraces, Echo Valley, and the cave. But when I had that chance, it was something that I truly treasured up to this date.

Sagada is filled with eye-refreshing sights. At least, a breather from the usual sea and sand. You can find nature and culture ventured into a community with mutual respect to the two. On the way to Sagada is the breathtaking Mt. Data mountain range where I experienced travelling at dawn time and it was like I am on top of the world with massive cloud formations sitting atop the Ifugao mountain ranges.

Sagada boasts a handful of nature's treasure. The Sumaguing Cave, the Bomod-ok and Bokong Falls, the Kiltepan Rice Terraces, Echo valley cliffs, and Lake Danum. Preservation of Igorot culture is also evident around the place with the Hanging Coffins and Burial Caves.

As fellow photographer and blogger Ferdz Decena said " Sagada is a place that is truly worth coming back". I will surely be back.

Shutter Subjects: caves, falls, rice terraces, hanging coffins, rock formations, landscaped valleys and mountains
Best Eaten: Yogurt, Fresh Veggies, Homemade sausages, Mountain-grown fruits, Pinikpikan, Eetag, Food toppings (Panalo to!)
Travel Date: July 2009
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3. Tondol Beach (Anda, Pangasinan)

Tondol Beach is definitely the best beach in Pangasinan and perfect when the tide is low. It's a five to six hour drive from Manila to Anda, Pangasinan. Go through Camiling and pass by Lingayen and through Alaminos (stopover at the Hundred Islands anyone?). It's on the way to Bolinao, right after the town of Bani.

Tondol possess powder ivory white sand in fact, there is an island one kilometer from the shore which you could walk or wade to. And it's powder white sand all the way. When the tide is low, you can pick a spot in the middle of the water and just sit down there the whole day. So if there is any beach that can claim to be the Boracay of the North, it's Tondol! But why even claim such a thing? Why are we always content with being a copy of the original when each beach is unique!

Tondol is actually a public beach and entrance fee is only PHP5. You can rent large huts for PHP200. For now, there aren't any good resorts to stay in so the best option when visiting Tondol is to stay overnight in neighboring Bolinao which is about 45 minutes away.

Shutter Subject: White beach shore line, long stretch of white sand
Best Eaten: Bangus, Bangus, Bangus....
Travel Date: September 2009
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4. Mt. Pulag (Ambangeg, Kabayan, Benguet 2,922 MASL)

Majestic Mt. Pulag is highest peak in Luzon and the dream destination of every Filipino outdoorsman. Its fabled views, of winding slopes of dwarf bamboo, and distant peaks surging like islets in the ocean of lofty clouds, comprise perhaps the most beautiful photo-op in Philippine mountaineering. The native tribes say that Mt. Pulag is the "playground of the gods". In Luzon, it is literally the closest to heaven that mountaineers can get!

The enchantment of Pulag, however, is much greater than just the clouds and dwarf bamboo. The entire experience is a great treat that makes the long travel time (10 hours from Manila to Baguio then Baguio to the jump-off) worth it. Whichever trail you choose - the easy Ambangeg, the challenging Akiki, the arduous Vizcaya trail, or the various traverse climbs - Pulag is a great adventure. Of course, many would opt to do different trails in one climb, the most common of which is the Akiki-Ambangeg combination.

Shutter Subjects: Pulag Sunrise, lush forests, mountain ranges and trails
Best Eaten: Mountain fruits and vegetables
Travel Date: November 2009

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5. Mt. Pinatubo Crater Trekking (Mt. Pinatubo, Capas, Tarlac 960 MASL)

After trekking the crater of Mt. Pinatubo, everything will be in awe. No exaggeration to this but imagine a glacier-like brown peaks with white smoke rising up and in the background, a crater lake that was so enchanting. What a sight to behold!

It is safe to swim in the crater of Mt. Pinatubo , but not in the middle, guides warn that currents might pull you underneath. Kayaks may be rented at the crater lake. Climb Pinatubo at any time of the year, but pay attention to weather conditions especially during the wet season months of May to September. Heavy rains, especially those of typhoons, cause lahar floods that have stranded tourists in the past. Not recommended attempting climbs to Mt. Pinatubo if there is any storm within Luzon, even if there is no storm warning for Zambales and Tarlac.

Shutter Subjects: Mt. Pinatubo crater and summit, Crater lake, Surrounding mountains and rock formations
Best Eaten: Since the location of Mt. Pinatubo is near Pampanga, it is very common in the area to have dishes likely the same as in Pampanga specially the local favorite Sisig.
Travel Date: February - March 2010
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Project Horshoe: The Anawangin Chronicles - 14-15 March 2009

Doing the same thing almost everyday tires me more than lifting weights in the gym. Imagine, I have to sit in front of the computer for 35 hours every week to check if my team is doing the right thing on their stations every single moment. Well, that's is how we are getting the job done in our field, so to escape boredom and burnt out, I took photography as a hobby.

One cold January day, I searched Google for nice pictures of landscapes in the Pilipinas. I bumped into Ironwulf.com of Ferdz Decena, a travel photographer who was humble enough to share his knowledge to other aspiring travel photographers. Among his numerous entries to his blog, one photostory that captured my attention is his entry about the Anawangin Cove.

I've been to Zambales so many times and in fact, I own a small piece of beachfront property in the outskirts of Iba. But hearing Anawangin and it is located in Zambales, it was something new. What struck me most is the pictures. Yes, white sand, pine trees, mountains, and rivers all packed into an island...Am I dreaming?

So to end all the brouhaha about the place, I proposed the place to a selected few. Individuals who are daring and bold enough to go against the flow...Non-conformist indeed. Planning and coordination were made accordingly and date was scheduled, March 14-15, 2009. We will try conquering and realizing a dream.

After our Friday shift, the so-called "Project Horseshoe" members gathered in the Victory Liner, Cubao terminal to catch the 04:20am trip. Originally, we are fourteen that planned and pushed for this Project. But due to various circumstances, only seven managed to hit the road (Brian, Camz, Connie, Cyrus, Sandie, Pabu and me). By the way, if your curious what is Project Horseshoe, it is the secret term we used whiel we were planning our Anawangin adventure. The cove was described on a blog entry as a "horseshoe-shaped cove".

After the almost four-hour bus travel, we finally reached San Antonio, Zambales and we were welcomed by our escort tricycle man. We bought our supplies at the nearby market and hit the road again riding a tricycle en route to Barangay Pundaquit.

This is the first stop of Team Project Horseshoe. We supposed to meet Mang Randy, the ever-helpful skipper from Pundaquit. But he is not available when we arrive so his wife, Ate Liza welcomed us in their humble place.

We had our lunch in a nearby carinderia and feasted on native dishes such as pork adobo, dinuguan, igado (Ilocano version of stripped pork steak), and chopsuey. Since most us did not have enough rest and butt-numbed because of the long drive from Manila to San Antonio, Zambales and the tricycle trip from the Poblacion to Pundaquit, we consumed around 10 orders of rice.

The shores of Pundaquit greeted us with damp air coming from the South China Sea and upon seeing the boat and the waves, excitement filled our souls. I have been travelling since 2002 to various places in the country and I could say that I am not a newbie to small boats and big waves. To some like Pabu, Sandie, Connie, Brian, and Camz they have experienced riding outrigger boats like this but for Cyrus, this is his time to be devirginized, at least on riding a boat.

After a chilling ride boarded an outrigger boat while the rain drenching our face, a sharp curve passing by a small island, everything turned into a complete desolate moment. White sand, tall pine trees, mocha brown mountains, and we finally realized...We are now in Anawangin Cove.

The picturesque scenery made me teary-eyed as I finally realised my dream. To set foot and touch the water of Anawangin in which I only see in the web and reviews from different photography and travelogues. We took our first picture as a group and I could say, the only decent picture we had during our stay.

Pabu, Sandie, Cyrus helped each other in pitching their tent while Brian and myself pitched ours as well. Camz and Connie prepare the food supply atop the bamboo table reserved for us by Kuya Bernie, the caretaker of the island.

After taking our afternoon meal of wood cooked rice and grilled tilapia and talong courtesy of Brian and myself, Connie sauteed bagoong to match the fish and talong, we're off the sight seeing and light trek mode. We traversed the one kilometer east side of the dry river bed and do some photo ops. Pabu and myself fulfilled our passion for photography taking macro shots of insects, flowers, trees, and wild berries. In this picture, we are heading to the south part of the river where water is still flowing.

It is beginning to dark and most of the Team doze off in the tents, Pabu and myself decided to check on the rock formations on the leftmost part of the cove. We took some good pictures here including the dramatic sunset of Anawangin Cove.

We spend the night with our old reliable petromax provided by Kuya Bernie. We feed on grilled tilapia, liempo, hotdogs and cheesedogs, and Cyrus's ever favorite from home...Pork and Beans...Brian, Pabu, and myself had some GSM Blue to booze ourselves to sleep and take a late night shower courtesy of the island's old school posong de bomba!

Morning greeted us with hot cup of coffee from our reliable kaldero and a hearty breakfast of Nel's Palaboy onion and tomato omelette, Brian's Hand-mashed fried rice, Connie's Kinamay na hotdog, and Cyrus' homegrown sardines ala 555. It was the best breakfast I've had for years!

As we pack our things for our return bout to reality, we trekked the right side of the cove. Connie and Sandie dipped to the cold river water and Pabu, Cyrus, and myself tried rock climbing atop Mt. Anawangin. We took pictures while were on top and the river serving as backdrop.

We bid our farewell to the cove with joy and fulfillment in our hearts. Though we were deprived of modern technology for a day, I can say that going back to where we started is a very humbling experience. We are very thankful to the Lord for giving us Filipinos this gift of nature. As a covenant, the Team Project Horseshoe will continue to promote environmental conservation and advocate for the promotion of this gift's.

We thanked the good people of Pundaquit: JL Acosta, Kuya Randy, Ate Liza, and Kuya Bernie for their warm welcome and help to us. We will definitely see Anawangin again.